For
me, travel for the African-American serves two major purposes.
First and foremost, it removes us from our familiar and insulated
environment and exposes us to other cultures, other lifestyles and
other “ways of being.” It allows us to see how Africans and
people of African descent live and are perceived by non- blacks
in other areas of the world. It also allows us to see how
foreigners, including Africans and people of African descent,
react to us as Americans of African descent. We get to see things
that previously were only pictures in a book or images on
television, and to evaluate firsthand the stereotypes of
foreigners that are ingrained in us by the American media. We go
beyond ourselves to connect, however briefly and/or superficially,
with another part of the world. In short, we broaden our horizons.
The
second major purpose involves something deeper and more personal.
In observing how non-Americans view us and react to us, we can
hopefully begin to look at ourselves from a perspective other than
that of the color-conscious society in which we live. We can
develop and strengthen a resolve to view ourselves as people first
and as black people second. From this vantage point, I believe that
we can more effectively deal with the trials and tribulations of
life in America.
African-Americans
have unique psychological baggage that we carry with us wherever
we go. Because we are so conditioned to deal with every aspect of
our lives in terms of race or color, it is extremely difficult for
us to believe that the entire world does not operate in the same
manner. So it is generally
with shock, followed by welcome relief, that the African-American
traveler finds that skin color may be of secondary importance to the people that she/he meets abroad. As an
example, this is precisely why many African-Americans moved to
France after World War I, and why they continued to do so after
World War II. While the “color-blind” French society is a
myth, the African-American quickly notes that in France, what matters more is the fact that
she/he is American.
My
brother Malcolm also loves to travel, and shares my belief that it
is very important for African-Americans to do so. In speaking with
him about the subject, I discovered that despite the difference in
our ages and our life experiences, our mutual desire to travel
developed in exactly the same way. It was during our college years
that we first came in contact with large numbers of people who
were not from Houston, not even from Texas. Suddenly among our
companions were people from “up North” or “from the West
Coast,” speaking with strange accents and slang that we had
previously heard only on television. They had actually seen the
Golden Gate bridge, had experienced blizzards and ridden the
subway, and were used to eating instead
of rice with their meals. How marvelous to be introduced to
different areas of the country, different ideas, and different
lifestyles by people our own age, striving for goals similar to
our own!
Malcolm
went to college in Texas, but I ventured off to school in
Philadelphia. So, in addition to the differences that I observed
in my companions, I
also experienced firsthand the completely different geography,
urban planning, and weather of the East Coast. The proximity of
New York, Baltimore and Washington, allowed me to take short trips to the homes of my new
friends. Even taking Amtrak to these cities was a new experience
for me—in Texas everyone drove between cities. I found these
forays exhilarating and enriching. I became acutely aware that
there was really a world out there, something tangible that I
could experience if I only made the effort. The pursuit of a minor
in French awakened in me the realization that I might even be able
to go abroad someday. The land of 365 cheeses, berets and the
Eiffel Tower awaited me.
And
why not? While I had no role models for world travel in my family
or immediate circle of friends, neither did I have any for going
to college halfway across the country. I was comfortable with
being away from home and enjoyed the feeling of conquering the
unknown each time I visited a new place. Equally stimulating was
my belief that I could move to any place that I chose, making a
life for myself and succeeding at whatever I decided to undertake.
Call it the arrogance of youth or whatever you like—I was
confident enough to try anything.
I was also focused (remember those firmly planted feet that I
mentioned earlier), and realized that to succeed at whatever I
chose, wherever I chose, I needed education and credentials. So
France became a dream deferred. During the years that I spent in professional and graduate schools in Philly
and central Ohio as well as during
my first two years at work, I saw friends of mine go off to Africa
and the Caribbean to do humanitarian work. Another friend was
given an expatriate assignment in northern England. Another went
to Taiwan to pursue graduate studies. Yet another was expatriated
to Switzerland for several years.
All
of these people are African Americans, and the vast majority are
women. Suddenly there was no lack of role models for travel
abroad—my peers had done so, and regaled me with tales that
whetted my appetite for my own foreign adventure. Most returned
home, but a few chose to remain abroad. All had gone overseas and
achieved their goals, and were extremely positive about their
experience.
During
this time I also
traveled as much as my budding
career would allow. I won a trip to Jamaica during veterinary
school, and had the uncomfortable experience of having black
servants wait on me in the villa in which I stayed. I visited
Haiti and witnessed the kindness and generosity of a people living
in overwhelming poverty. I visited Barbados to see the friend who
had gone to the Caribbean to work in the Peace Corps. I had the
pleasure of being invited to Montreal for a job interview and to be wined and
dined by the company, only to turn down the job offer extended to
me. And I took two trips to Europe, the first on a fun-filled
excursion with friends to
London and Paris and the second on a job search to laboratories in
France and Switzerland.
With
each trip, I learned a little more about the rest of the world in
comparison to my own. That the problem of race relations in the
United States pales in comparison to the abject poverty
experienced by the Black people of Haiti. That, as an
African-American woman, I could be sought after for my
professional skills without having to think that affirmative
action was behind a
company’s interest in me. And perhaps most importantly, that people
react to other people and to events similarly, regardless of color
or nationality.
When
I finally moved to
Paris in 1992, it was the thrill of my life! While immersing
myself in all things French, I also sought to maintain my
connections with my own
culture. I became involved with a group of African-American women
who would eventually organize themselves into an official association called
SISTERS.
This group was primarily for African-Americans, but women from the
Caribbean were also invited to participate in meetings and
activities, provided they could speak English.
It
quickly became apparent that the black experience of the SISTERS from the Caribbean was very
different from our own experience in America, and that the two
points of reference were often a cause of conflict. I also became
aware that there was a
self-imposed segregation among the black
populations of Paris, with people from the Caribbean keeping their
distance from black
Africans. And one of the African-American women who I met through
SISTERS had a much more serious encounter with interracial conflict. As a
public health professional who worked often and extensively in
Africa, she narrowly escaped with her life during the massacres
that occurred in Rwanda in 1994. Thus, I learned that being black
is not enough to transcend the cultural differences and biases
born of ethnocentricity and nationality.
It
was also because of SISTERS that I eventually authored a soul food cookbook. It is filled not
only with recipes highlighting cooking from Texas and Louisiana
(my mother’s home state), but also with discussions of the
origins of soul food, the culinary history of Texas and Louisiana,
and the history of several ingredients not commonly known to the
French. The book was published in French, with a preface written
by perhaps the most successful French chef of contemporary times,
Alain Ducasse. I am happy to
say that it has been received with great enthusiasm, as much for
the cultural aspects as for the food. The curiosity and respect that the French have demonstrated for
African-American culture since after World War I is now extending
to our culinary history.
I
believe that in a small way, my book is bringing people of
different cultures closer together. For me, this is a source of
individual and cultural pride. It is yet another example of how
we, as African Americans, can dare to dream and can achieve on our
own merits, and be admired and respected for who and what we are.
It is unfortunate, but sometimes this is easier to
accomplish on foreign soil than on our own.
I
now have a much broader perspective on many aspects of life in the
u.s., particularly
the ever-present racial tension that plagues our nation. The
problems that we face as black
people in America have arisen from a historically unique set of
circumstances, but they are not fundamentally different than those
of other repressed peoples (including whites). Traveling has
allowed me to see this and to internalize it. I believe that this
realization is crucial for African-Americans, in that it will
permit us to look
more objectively at ourselves and our history.
From
this global vantage point, we cannot fail to develop and
strengthen a deep-rooted sense of pride in our accomplishments and
our capabilities as a people. With this inner fortitude, and with
the knowledge of how we are respected and emulated as a culturally
distinct people, we can return to the United States and share this
cultural wisdom with others in the African-American community. In
this way, we can begin to shed the psychological baggage that I
mentioned earlier, and build a healthy emotional foundation from
which we can successfully do battle with the pettiness and
ignorance of racism and other forms of intolerance that we
encounter at home.
These
are the lessons that travel, and particularly travel abroad, has
taught me. My life in Paris has confirmed these lessons time and
again. I fervently believe that if we as African-Americans have
the courage to leave our enclaves throughout the u.s.
and venture forth to embrace the world, we can only enhance our belief in ourselves and become stronger as
individuals and as a community.
Monique
Y. Wells is a veterinary pathologist and an 8-year resident of
Paris, France. She is the author of Food for the Soul, a soul food
cookbook which is to be published in the United States this year.
The French translation of the book, entitled La Cuisine Noire
Americaine, was published in France in October 1999. Dr. Wells and
her husband are also the owners of the travel service
Discover Paris!:Personalized
itineraries for Independent Travelers —cp
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